Cat Supplies
Cats have several needs, most are not expensive, and some can be made from things you likely already have. The absolute minimum is a box type carrier, a litter box (needed whether your cat is indoor or outdoor, snow storms come to mind), a scratching post, food and vaccinations. Use the links below to jump ahead.
Scratching Post | Carrier | Litter Box | Shelves | Food | Toys | Vet Care
Scratching
A scratching post is one of the most important thing you get a cat. Even outdoor cats often enjoy having a scratching post inside. A scratching post is ideally a vertical surface covered in sisal or other roughened rope. Natural tree bark could also work. The important thing is that the material feel nothing like any other surface in your home. Carpet scratching posts often cause problems as they feel just like your normal carpet.
I've had success with the cardboard scratching boxes. Once introduced to these my cats have not scratched anywhere but on that box. The boxes are made by gluing cardboard strips to each other, and the end result being the corrugated sides of the cardboard facing up for the cat to scratch on. An added bonus is it both replicates tree bark, and is like nothing else in your home.
Close-up of cardboard scratcher.
Another bit thing to consider with scratching surfaces is your cat. Some prefer to stretch up to scratch. If yours prefers this a cardboard scratcher won't work unless you attach it to a wall. This normally necessitates a post, but realistically most cat scratching posts are much too short to keep a cat interested once it is an adult. There are a few companies making tall scratchers, but I find them prohibitively expensive.
I've made a number of different scratchers. My most recent one uses a refill for a crappy plastic scratcher. The refill happened to have Velcro attachers and was about 4 feet long. it was meant to wrap over a scratcher and back down the other side. I used the Velcro to wrap it around a 1 x 6 board and screwed the board onto my bookcase. I also used some glue on the back to make it more slip resistant. As this bookcase was somewhere my cat had been showing inappropriate interest this has completely solved that problem.
I've also made one from a 2 x 6 piece of wood with sisal rope glued and wrapped around it. I found it a pain to do, but the cat liked it for a few years until the sisal became too loose.
Carrier
A cat carrier is a very important item. Whenever your cat is going to the vet or to a boarder a carrier is necessary. A cardboard box can suffice for a very short time or in an emergency, but cats can get out or chew out of them very quickly. A good plastic carrier with at least one door is preferable. Some come with a second roof door, which is easier to insert an angry kitty into.
Litter Box
This is almost the single most important purchase for a cat owner. Even outdoor cats on occasion prefer to go inside, such as after a very heavy snowfall. The box should be large enough for the cat to fit inside easily, and low enough to make entering easy. Covered boxes are an idea, but cats often want to be able to see around when they are vulnerable. Another choice for concealment is a folding screen. Good places for the litter box vary, with most being kept in a bathroom.
Cat litters now come in many varieties. Simple clay litter is still available, as is scoop able, flushable (not really recommended as it can scour your pipes a bit), recycled newspaper, pressed wood, or even absorbing crystals. The brand or type will depend on you or the cat. Most people want less dust with some odor control. Cats often prefer sandy types, as digging is easiest, but they are more apt to track them around the house. Those with dust allergies would do best to choose a low dust brand, and use a mask when cleaning the box, unless you are able to have someone else change it.
I use World's Best Cat litter. It is a ridiculously expensive product for my cat to poop in, but I really like it. It is made of corn so is biodegradeable. I rarely have to dump the box, it clumps quite well and there isn't much smell unless I've been lazy about the box, which I frequently am (the only upside of a cat who lived with a hoarder, she doesn't care how dirty the litter box is.)
My litter box recently went through a redesign. I've had the dog problem for years. You know the one, dogs constantly trying to get snacks out of the litter box. I had the cat box in closed rooms for years but it was driving me nuts. I finally built a litter box hide. It was easy. I found a cabinet carcass (24" x 30" I think) at ikea and some doors and hinges. I got a deep box that would fit in about half of the cabinet. I got some plywood to make a top and make a shelf about the height of the new litter box. I then cut a hole in the door in front of the box. I guess you could also try cutting a hole in the back or side if you want it hidden. My cat box is now in my kitchen and the dogs can't get to it, but changing it is easy and the cat seems to like the privacy.
Before I added the doors this was the basic design.
With the doors installed, the dogs can't get to the cat litter, but the cat can easily get into the box.
Yes the doors don't match quite each other, which happens when you buy them on separate trips.
I should reiterate here that I have an awesome cat. No matter where I move the litter box or what kind of litter I put in it I've never had a problem with her using it. When I go on vacations I often put her in a specific room and just move the box. The other cat, my god you'd think the litter box was a church for how perfect he wants it to be.
Shelves
An admittedly weird accent in my living room are three shelves built up the wall and a board covered with carpet behind my couch below the shelves. The top shelf has my cat's food bowl on it. She can easily jump between the shelves, and now no matter how hard the dogs try they can't get to the cat food. they aren't quite wide enough for her to sprawl on, but she does sit on them frequently enjoying being out of the dog's reach. I may make a wider one for her to sprawl on at some later time.
The shelves were made out of shelf brackets and shelves from ikea cut into small pieces. I hung them with 4 50lb screws each. Then I covered them with bits of carpet for traction. The carpet was originally sold as stair treads, but cut nicely for my project. In the last three years she's only fallen off them once.
Food
Cat foods may all appear the same, but your cat probably has definite preferences. Generally dry food is better for teeth, though wet food often smells better (at least to cats, not in the litter box however.) Higher quality cat food is better, as it will have more protein from meat sources. Cats are not vegetarians, and unlike dogs can not process vegetable proteins well. Look for high meat foods, and avoid as many preservatives as you can.
I do personally try to avoid fish in any form in my pet food. Fish can be high in mercury and when tested cats generally have a tremendous amount of mercury in their bodies due to their size. I assume this is due to fish being a main ingredient in many of their diets. This has become harder since suddenly every food needs to have omega Fatty Acids in it. This has led to me feeding allergy formulas just to avoid all the ingredients I don't like.
There is an ongoing debate of wet vs dry food. Cats aren't known for drinking a lot, so dry foods have the possibility of leaving to kidney problems. I have two cats right now. one has been eating dry food for the last 7 years and the other wet for probably his whole life. The one on wet has 1 tooth left. He can't chew and can only eat wet food. The one on dry is a few years younger but isn't missing any teeth. She drinks quite often. I refresh the water a few times a day and she sometimes drinks from the fish tanks.
Admittedly the one on wet is not 14 years old, skinny and eats fancy feast because anything else makes him sick, so he isn't the best example. High quality wet food might be less of a problem. If only I could get them to eat mice, since that is actually as natural as you can get for cat food.
Toys
Cats will make toys out of anything. String, feathers and such are much more likely to be toys, though a paper ball is often appreciated. Another often used household object is the plastic that seals milk jug lids. Cats love these semicircle pieces of plastic. Store bought toys are fine as well, but watch out if you cat likes eating string or feathers. Avoid toys with pieces that would be very easy to chew off and swallow, that could become very expensive.
Cats don't mind if all their toys are ping pong balls and milk jug rings.
Vet Care
Cats need to have shots, and boosters every year. They should also have a general check up once a year with a veterinarian. Cats should always be in a carrier when going to the vet for their own safety and yours. Having loose kittens in a car is asking for one to find the brake pedal.
